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Nel Centro: Portland’s Riviera
Thursday, May 21st, 2009
Usually one would never associate Portland with a town that probably smells like sunscreen year round, but David Machado’s newest restaurant, Nel Centro is influenced by the cuisine of the French and Italian Rivieras. I really can’t say if they nailed what they were going for with Bain de Soleil being the closest I’ve ever been to any Riviera, but I will definitely be returning. The space feels modern and sophisticated yet playful. The use of materials is definitely influenced by the mid-century Hotel Modera, that the restaurant is attached to. Floor to ceiling windows let light in from north and south, with the south side facing a courtyard whose evening fire pits you can enjoy while having a drink at the hip and happening bar. As to our meal, the appetizers were gorgeous and the ingredients were local and at their peak. What really slayed us were our entrees. J had a tender piece of pork shoulder, bone in, a portion which will please the manly meat lover. I don’t know how they kept it so tender, but they did. The pork was served with a fruit compote that reminded me of a chutney that might fit right in at Machado’s Vindalhou in the Clinton neighborhood. My Delmonico steak was also generous and tender, but the clincher was the potato gratin- the best I’ve ever had. Luckily, you can order the gratin as a side dish, as well as a fennel gratin and pomme frittes. I have a feeling these a la carte sides are going to be destination dishes. After the substantial meal we passed on desert, but were able to take the rest of our wine out to the courtyard, finishing it next to a friendly group of young attorneys from a nearby office building. We were all very happy to have a new restaurant in SW Portland. Along with Clyde Commons, Park Kitchen and Higgens, I’m beginning to feel that downtown Portland’s food scene can hope to rival the east side. More must see restaurant, garden and hotel pictures.
We had dinner at Nel Centro as well and were knocked out by the food and the decor…a definite winner! And your photos are terrific (that vertical garden is quite spectacular).
Hi Kathryn,
Thanks so much for your kind words about Nel Centro. With friends like you, life will be good downtown.
Cheers,
Richard Pelletier
(the sometimes content/social media guy for David Machado)
I’d love to hear about your dinner. I’m contemplating a similar vertical garden structure in our home garden, isn’t it impressive?
Hi Richard,
I bought clients a night at the Hotel Movado for a closing gift, but they were waiting for the restaurant to open so that they could enjoy cocktails there as well. I’m looking forward to my next dinner there, and I so appreciate what David has added to Portland’s food lexicon.
Kathryn